Ice Climbing
Frozen waterfalls offer one of the most stunning climbing mediums available. The colours of the ice and incredible formations and features are truly spectacular. The Canadian Rockies offer some of the best and most reliable waterfall ice climbing in the world. With hundreds of established routes available of all grades, there is something for everyone. The season generally runs from November through April, although waterfall ice can be climbed into June for the really keen!
Ratios for multi pitch ice and mixed routes are generally 2:1 although on some longer and/or more difficult routes it may only be practical at 1:1
Contact me to plan your ice climbing trip.
Some Area classics:
Weeping Wall WI 4-6
Icefields parkway AB. A beautiful sheet of ice resembling a vertical football field. Many lines to choose from.
Carlsberg column WI5
Field B.C. An outstanding 2-3 pitch route with a fairly easy 20 minute approach.
Louise Falls WI 4+
Lake Louise AB. A beautiful 4 pitch route in a postcard setting.
Pretty Nuts WI 4
Golden B.C. A short 5-10 minute drive from Golden, this 4 pitch route is an area classic.
Cascade Falls WI 3
Banff AB. A fun long route with beautiful views of the Bow valley.
These are just examples. There are over 400 ice climbs in the area to choose from.
Mixed Climbing
For those experienced climbers looking for a different or bigger challenge, mixed climbing may be your thing. Mixed climbing involves climbing rock with ice tools and crampons to link ice features that otherwise would be unclimbable. The advent of mixed climbing spawned the phrase "It doesn't have to be in to be in!" There are many variations on the sport ranging from well protected sport style pitches, to multipitch gear protected radness.
Mixed climbing is definitely the next level of winter climbing and will challenge your mind and forearms! Whether you are looking for a skills clinic or looking to ascend a modern testpiece, we can accommodate your needs. There are a multitude of mixed climbs both single and multi pitch that are easily accessible form our base.
Some Examples are
Coir Dubh Integral 5.7 WI3
Canmore AB. A long moderate mixed route. A great introduction to longer alpine style routes.
Bear Spirit M5-M9
Banff AB. A really fun sport bolted mixed cragging area. Lots to choose from.
Sinus Gully 5.6 WI 3
Kootenay Park BC. A fun bigger day on a moderate multi pitch classic. It is on the famous Stanley Headwall and gives an opportunity to ogle some of the hardest routes in the range.
The Cuckoos Nest M6+ WI 5+
Golden B.C. A true area test piece mere minutes from Golden.
Contact me to discuss route options.